As I prepare to close on my very own 10-acre farm, I’ve been revisiting some of the materials I have collected over the past ten years of working towards this purchase. I’ve read hundreds of books and watched thousands of hours of YouTube videos, but the only paid subscription I have maintained is to Self-Reliance Magazine.
Self-Reliance is a quarterly publication that focuses on homesteading topics like gardening, preserving food, foraging, and raising animals. There are no articles on guns or politics, which I really appreciate because, as a thought-child of Helen and Scott Nearing and the Back to the Land movement, I am consistently surprised by the political leanings of the homesteading community.
Every few months, a new edition arrives – and like clockwork, I flip through it, maybe read and article or two, and then put it on a shelf with a promise to come back to it later. With my homestead on the horizon, the time to revisit them is now.
In February, I revisited the 2023 editions and extracted the most useful ideas for my homestead that I could find. This week, I did the same for the 2024 editions. Here are the 13 tips that were most relevant to me – maybe they’ll be useful for you, too!
Spring 2024:
Idea #1: Forage for the first fresh produce of the Spring
I love the idea of foraging but rarely make the time to actually do it – but this is the perfect time of year to start looking! In my area, I can forage ramps, stinging nettles, garlic mustard, lambs quarter, sheep sorrel, dandelion, violet, Japanese knotweed, and more.
This edition included a violet lemonade recipe that I would love to try, and also identified several ways to use spring onions. I wasn’t previously aware that you can freeze spring onions for year-long use!
It also reminded me that spring onions can be dehydrated and ground up for use as onion powder. My dehydrator has been sitting in storage for the past four years while I’ve been in an apartment, so I’m looking forward to using it a lot more – and this is a very easy, no-cost, low-risk option to try.
Idea #2: Plant and grow a small plot of wheat
Tending a small plot of wheat is a long-term goal of mine – I have maintained a sourdough starter for the past 7 years, and it would be incredible to make a loaf with homegrown wheat. An article in this edition made it feel worthwhile and attainable.
Realistically, I will never be able to grow enough wheat to be self sufficient, but this could be a really fun project in the future. I have plenty of space for it on my upcoming farm, and I already own a scythe that I can use for harvesting, as recommended in the article. 🙂
Idea #3: Sweet potatoes can be grown in the North!
Sweet potatoes are the ideal survival crop – the starchy tubers provide a great deal of nutrition and calories, they’re relatively easy to store through the winter, the leaves are edible as well, and once planted they require little maintenance.
However, most varieties of sweet potato do best in a warmer environment. I have tried to grow them in both Colorado and Connecticut with limited success – I did get a decent harvest of tubers each time, but it wasn’t the super easy and abundant harvest boasted from homesteaders in the South.
After reading an article in this issue, I realized that I should give them another shot – possibly in bags or tubs to help extend the growing season. It takes about 100 days from planting for sweet potatoes to mature, and rather than planting seeds, they are planted by slips – sprouts that emerge from a mature sweet potato.
In the past, I planted slips purchased from garden supply stores. My closing date for my farm precludes me from growing sweet potatoes in 2025, but I think I should try again in 2026, and I will buy some local sweet potatoes at the farmer’s market and produce slips myself. While it takes 2-3 months to produce slips, it is a very simple process (simply tuck the sweet potato into a jar with some water and wait) – and by doing this I will make sure I’m growing sweet potatoes that are already proven to do well in my area.
This article also shared some useful storage tips for when I eventually have a successful harvest: wrap individually in newspapers, place in ventilated crates, and then cure in a warm area for 5-10 days by a woodstove, space heater, or in a greenhouse. Sweet potatoes are considered cured when the skin remains intact after two are rubbed together. They can then be placed in a root cellar or cool basement.
Summer 2024:
Idea #4: Use a clothesline to reduce energy use
My farm property has a clothesline in the front yard. I’ve never seen the current owners use it; it was likely installed by the original homeowner, who was a solo female homesteader in her own right.
I hang dry a fair bit of clothing in the second bathroom in my apartment; I find that it helps clothes last longer and reduces the drying time for the clothes that I do send through a dryer cycle. I’m not sure I’ll want to look out my front window at a clothesline, so maybe I should consider moving it or installing one in a different location. Either way, I look forward to using a clothesline when I live in the country.
As an aside – in dry climates and/or in the winter, it can be nice to hang dry clothes indoors and let the moisture help reduce the aridity in the house. While it’s not very aesthetic, I used all the doorframes in my house in Denver to dry my clothes – everything dried very quickly, and while it didn’t completely solve the dry climate, every little bit helped.
Idea #4: 5-gallon buckets have a lot of use on the farm
This comic reminded me of a very inexpensive way to increase your yield: grow vertically with food-safe buckets.
Many delis, grocery stores, or similar businesses receive shipments of ingredients in food-safe 5 gallon buckets. If you ask, they may be willing to give them to you for very little cost (or even free). Drill a few holes for drainage, fill with soil (possibly with a base layer of leaves or shredded paper to help fill the space), and then plant.
A five-gallon bucket is a bit small for a pepper or tomato plant – although, resilient as they are, they’d still likely produce fruit. Instead, I really like this method for growing vining plants such as peas and beans. At my childhood home, we ran twine from the pickle bucket handles to an old gazebo frame; while it looked a little trashy, it gave us an excellent harvest using otherwise un-growable space. I’d do it again in a heartbeat.
Idea #5: Plan and organize for a successful “deep pantry”
I am really looking forward to finally having the space to store food – both homegrown produce via freezing, canning, and dehydrating, as well as bulk-purchased dry goods. Due to various aspects of my childhood and general personality traits, I crave the stability of knowing I am prepared for anything that might happen.
Storing food long-term is tricky, especially if you live in a house in the middle of a field and thus have to deal with rodent problems – as will be the case on my new farm. This issue included a variety of helpful tips on maintaining a long-term deep pantry:
- Maintain a written inventory that is frequently updated (I will probably keep a digital copy on my phone for ease of access)
- Rotate products and use them on a first in, first out basis to maintain freshness
- Install a temperature and humidity monitor to ensure consistent conditions that are conducive to food storage
- Use hard-sided containers such as locking-lid tubs or trash cans to store dry goods and deter pests
One might also consider storing the pantry across multiple locations. While it would be preferable to organize everything in one place, this comes with potential risks; if, for example, the basement floods, it could ruin all of the products that are stored in the basement. If there were a second storage space in an extra bedroom, the food stored there would be safe. Additionally, having multiple locations allows for environmental conditions such as humidity to be optimized for the products stored there.
Fall 2024:
Idea #6: Get ducks??
I don’t really eat eggs. I don’t particularly want to take on the responsibility of a bunch of animals until I’m fully established on my homestead. So WHY am I frothing at the bit to get ducks?!
This issue included a pretty persuasive article on the merits of including ducks on the homestead. Duck eggs are valuable because they are hard to come by, make great baked goods, and can sometimes be better tolerated by people who have trouble digesting chicken eggs. In our current egg shortage situation, I bet duck eggs could bring in a decent profit on the homestead.
Ducks are unbelievably cute and I’m definitely going to consider getting some someday… but in the meantime, I’m trying to remind myself that they’re loud, can be messy, and a fairly significant responsibility.
Idea #7: Provide enrichment to chickens to improve their laying season
Chickens are known for being great at converting unusable table scraps into useful compost and eggs. Like with ducks, I have no immediate plans to get chickens – although I’m tempted! That said, my adopted parents have chickens on their adjacent farm, so I’m always on the lookout for tips that will help provide enrichment and nutrition for the chickens through the winter.
Here’s a great idea: spread some cheap grass seed on a patch in the chicken run, and then put a clear plastic bin overtop like a mini greenhouse. The bin will maintain some warmth and protect the sprouting grass from the chickens. When it has grown to be a few inches tall, lift the lid and let the chickens enjoy eating and scratching around. Since most of the roots will still be intact, you can replace the lid for a week to let the grass regrow – and you could even set up a series of these patches so that the chickens have access to fresh grass through most of the winter.
I’m in New England, so I doubt this would work in the coldest parts of our winter – but it would be a great way to extend the season and provide enrichment in the tail ends of the winter season. This may also correlate with a longer laying season due to increased nutrition; currently, our chickens hunker down in the winter and all but stop laying.
Idea #8: Cure your garlic for proper storage
I’m relatively new to growing garlic; this is my third season with garlic in the ground. It’s a lot of fun, fairly easy, and we have had great harvests, but the curing process is the tricky part to ensure it lasts the winter.
The process of curing means “allowing enough time for the moisture in the roots and leaves to be absorbed into the bulb.” Properly stored, a truly cured garlic bulb will not rot for for 6-12 months.
Never wash your bulbs before drying. Once removing them from the ground, place the bulbs in a well-ventilated location where they will be protected from rain and direct sunlight. The author of Self-Reliance‘s article dries their garlic in a woodshed with a temp of 55 to 58 degrees Fahrenheit. It will take 2-3 weeks for curing if the weather is warm and dry, but it could take 4-6 weeks if it’s wet and humid. (This makes me realize that we likely haven’t cured it for long enough, as the weather here in Connecticut is often humid.)
Once cured, leave them on the stalk but cut off dangling roots and gently brush off any remaining soil. Leave the skins in-tact; this will help protect them from rot. Inspect each bulb; any wounds in the outer skin will result in early rot, so simply eat those bulbs first. Cured bulbs can be stored in a root cellar or cool basement in a natural wicker basket or mesh stocking to promote airflow.
Idea #9: Let vining plants spread out over the yard to maximize your harvest
The “Ask Jackie” section had a blurb about growing pumpkins; towards the end, she noted that the vines can be directed out onto the lawn in order to save on garden space. This reminded me of an idea that I have toyed with over the years: having a feral garden.
The garden at my childhood home abutted a patch of landscaping rocks that had been discarded by the previous owner. In order to maximize the yield in the space I had, I planted cucumbers and butternut squash on the ends of each garden row, and then let the vines splay out over the rocks. Occasionally, a raccoon would scale the back fence, dig into a butternut squash, find it unripe, and then leave – but I was able to produce so much in the space that even with some crop loss I still had a successful harvest.
The garden space at my new farm will be a year by year project – I’m planning for a quick but manageable increase in size for the next several years. In the meantime, it might be interesting to try putting some extra seeds out in random places on the property just to see what succeeds. A feral pumpkin garden out in the field will be at risk of predators, but planting for sheer quantity may overcome those risks – and the maintenance work would be minimal assuming we don’t enter a drought.
Idea #10: Make fruit leather
Fruit leather made from foraged wild blueberries sounds absolutely delicious – and it turns out that, when properly made, fruit leather can be stored in a cloth sack (to promote air circulation) for months at a time.
As discussed earlier, one of my goals for the new property is to use my dehydrator more often. I’ve never made fruit leather, but I could see this as an excellent way to preserve an abundant fruit harvest.
While wild blueberries line the property, it won’t be possible to beat the birds to enough of a harvest to make leather; however, there are plenty of wild blackberries, raspberries, and huckleberries to include. Even autumn olive probably makes a great fruit leather. And of course, there will also be a TON of fruit when my orchard reaches maturity – fruit leather will expand my capacity for long term storage.
Winter 2024:
Idea #11: Create your own seed bank
This is simply good gardening practice; how can you be self-reliant if you rely on seed catalogs?
I LOVE saving seeds from year to year – it’s like a bonus harvest! And since it takes a long time for a plant to reach the point where seeds are ready to collect, it generally means that the seeds you save are from plants that were successful in your climate – which means that by saving seeds, you can optimize your garden for your specifications as the years go on. Self-Reliance recommends storing two years’ worth of seeds, collected from a garden planted with only open-pollinated species. You should store your seed bank in a cool, dark location – even the freezer is a great option.
I realized that I have a lot to say on this topic, so be on the lookout for a post on how to save your own seeds coming later this month. In the meantime, SeedSavers is an amazing resource!
Idea #12: Build a simple birdhouse
This issue included simple instructions for how to build a basic birdhouse using scrap wood and hand tools. I have a lot of tools but limited building knowledge. A project like this is a great, low-risk way to learn and practice, especially over the winter when other farm tasks slow down.
Idea #13: Dehydrate kale for long-term storage
New gardeners are often surprised by just how prolific kale is; as such, the “Ask Jackie” section of this issue included some advice on how to make the most of the harvest.
I typically freeze most of my kale for use in smoothies, but Jackie recommended dehydrating it; in an airtight container kept in a dark location, it will be good for years to come. Dehydrated kale can be added to casseroles, soups, and stews.
This is a lovely idea because it doesn’t take up any freezer space, which can be at a premium after a good harvest year.
And of course – extra kale can always be fed to the goats:)
With just 2.5 months to go, I’ll be turning these ideas into actions in the blink of an eye.
Can you use any of these tips on your farm or in your garden? Do you have any other resources like Self-Reliance that you would recommend to a soon-to-be homesteader?
I am both excited and VERY overwhelmed, so I welcome any advice you might have.
Talk soon,
KC
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